Day 15 Sutri to Formello

As we rode out of Sutri we passed another Etruscan and Roman sight. There was ancient caves carved in to the ‘tuff stone’ that been made before Roman times. One large one had been converted in to a church with frescos on the cave ceiling. Unfortunately we could not go in as it wasn’t open yet. Then came an even bigger surprised - a huge amphitheater carved out of the rock 30m deep and about a ½ football field in diameter. Very impressive!

The heat is here and we were sweating early as we road up the hill when we were in the full sun. The morning was going quickly but then as we crossed a road Andrews bike made a large ‘bang’ sound. At first it just seemed like the chain had come off but when we picked it up to put it back on it was an new, more menacing challenge - the chain was broken! 

It was clear - the ‘quick link’ had broken and the pin was gone. Digging through my repair kit, I didn’t have a spare quick link - they are chain-specific, so even if I had one, I would not have had one that worked with these 9-speeds. I had the chain tool which would allow me to press out a link pin and remove the broken quick link. As we contemplate that portion, we waved down a car to see if they knew of a taxi or nearby shop. They said, just wait, a biker will be along shortly to help. Sure enough within 5 min a very generous biker stopped at my ‘scusi’ and although he didn’t have a quick link (which would have taken 5 min) he also had a chain tool and before we could say Grazie he was pressing the pin out. A few challenges (if you press the pin too far it falls out and then it is much harder to get started again), but he had the chain back together in about a ½ hr and sent us off on our way while he continued on his way. Grazie Mille biker! We transferred Andrews luggage to the other bikes to put less stress on the drive chain and I took his bike to baby it the next 15 km to town. some very steep hills in to town, but the bike was still pedaling (well we all had to push up those hills!) when we arrived. 

Thankfully there was a bike repair store in the next town, it was a Friday, they were open, AND they could help! While Crys and the kids ate an early lunch at the coop grocery store (with great prepared food, a coffee bar and an outside patio - all the fixin’s for a bike traveler!) I pedaled the short distance to the shop, got the chain replaced, bought an extra quick link and we were ready to finish our trip!

A very hot afternoon with some more ‘push only’ uphills but by 2 pm were arrived at our last trail accommodations, and they did not disappoint! A beautiful pool, lush gardens and cool AC in the rooms. It could not have been a more delightful last night on the via Francigena! We swam, read, relaxed and soaked in the tranquility. It was quite a gem just 30 km from Roma!

Etruscan caves cut in to ‘tuff stone’ that were converted later to a Christian church

Etruscan amphitheater that was later taken over by the romans

Hydrangea at Pool Paradise at our last night on the via Francigena

Pool heaven - it felt great after a hot ride and a broken chain!